Martin on the moto: Ben Hope

I headed west along the north coast. While most people take John O Groats as the point to get to at the top of the UK, I was more interested in the remote northwest corner and two things in particular: Ben Hope and Cape Wrath. Ben Hope (927m) is the most northerly Munro and looks out to the north pole - it's the last mountain of the Scottish mainland.

Today the roads were deserted. The flat land around JOG gradually becomes more hilly, then the road reduces to a single carriageway with passing points. There was no hurry so I took frequent diversions off the main road - Dunnet Head, Strathy Point - then wound around into Tongue where I stocked up on cash and food supplies as I wasn't sure where the next shop would be. The weather was cold, alternating clear patches with sudden icy downpours of hail coming from the north-east. Ben Hope and Ben Loyal became visible a long way off - the air was very clear.

I took a tiny side road down the west side of Ben Hope and stopped to make some tea. Further along was the point (on the s/w side of the mountain) where ascents begin - but that'll have to be another time as I didn't fancy climbing a mountain in motorcycle gear. I retraced the route back to the main road and, after skirting Loch Eribol, found a deserted camping in Durness right over the sea. I set up right on top of the cliff overlooking the beach, angling the tent's tail into the strong north-east wind. The hail showers continued to come, and the combination of howling wind and hail kept waking me during the night.